Madelene Coke, Coke Farm, San Juan Bautista, California
Coke Farm is a family
run operation started by Dale and his sister Madelene. Christine Coke
joined the farm after she married Dale.
Dale began the farm in 1981, with 1/4 acre of strawberries. Initially,
he did all the work himself, delivering locally to restaurants and local
markets, and growing more vegetables as the market expanded. In fact,
Dale's foray into organic gardening was at a fortuitous time, coinciding
with the explosion of California cuisine and its demand for esoteric,
high-quality and organic vegetables.
Over the years, Coke Farm has grown to its current size of 400 acres on various ranches spread around the San Juan Bautista area. Each site has its own micro-climate, soil conditions, and water type, creating different challenges in each area. As it has grown, the farm has changed its focus, moving more to mainstream varieties, but the farm still keeps a few more 'interesting' crops, like pomegranate, cassis, and red currants. Coke Farm's main crops now are strawberries, lettuces (10 varieties), broccoli, celery, and cauliflower, plus what's in season now: beets, celeriac, parsnips, leeks, spring mix, and braising mix. Check out the recipe and discussion of celeriac on pages 8 and 9 for more on this interesting plant. Coke Farm is proud to be continuing its tradition by growing three main varieties of strawberries. Christine's favourite is Chandler, a dark, round, medium-sized berry with an intense fragrance and a very sweet flavour. Coke Farm also grows Seascape and Aroma strawberries, and trials other varieties.
One of the things that makes Coke Farms unique is their interest in developing new techniques for organic farmers. Christine is partnering with three local scientists to find alternatives to three major problems for organic strawberry growers. One project, undertaken with a scientist from the USDA, is seeking an organic alternative to methyl bromide (prohibited under organic standards). This is a major fumigant used on-farm to sterilize soil, and by shippers, ports and food handlers across North America to control fungi, rodents and insects in shipments. Methyl bromide is also a major contributor to ozone depletion, and according to the Montreal Protocol, must be phased out in the next few years. With the USDA scientists, Christine is treating strawberry roots with mycchorzia to build up a protection zone from soil-borne fungi and bacteria. In other projects, Christine is using beneficial insects to control Lygus and spider mite, both of which are major problems for organic strawberry farmers.
In order to create habitats for beneficial insects, Coke Farm is planting windbreaks, hedges and trees. Around the 10 acres of strawberries, Christine has planted corn as both a windbreak and for dust control, along with neighbouring fields of flowers and other habitat plants. Integrating row crops with pasture land and hay land not only feeds animals but provides a precious habitat for beneficial insects and an alternative habitat for pests. Hedgerows of flowering and fruiting bushes provide crop variety and habitat, as well as increasing biodiversity.
In addition, Coke Farm also brokers for a few other local farmers like Michael Halperin, helping with packaging and shipping. Each farm sells under its own label. "We provide very personal service to our customers and our farmers," says Christine. "We have a really good relationship with the farmers. We advise them on quality, varieties and quantities." The Cokes have just put in a new cooler and packing house, with climate control, pre-cooled water, an improved sanitation program, and regular lab tests of water and produce.
All this variety also keeps the farmers' interest high. As Christine says, "We have a passion for what we grow. I love to grow things like black currants and pomegranate, even though they are not profitable, because they are interesting. This is not just a business for us. We are a family farm, and we try to have lots of fun." Of course, Dale, Christine and Madeline are more than good business people - they are creative and skilled farmers, with a real commitment to furthering organic farming techniques.
